Many people enjoy the vegetarian lifestyle today, either for health or ethical reasons. Some people choose to extend this dietary philosophy to their pets as well, which has prompted the marketing of commercial vegetarian dog and cat foods. There is a spectrum of foods and ingredients that may be included or excluded from a "vegetarian" diet, depending on one’s definition.
At minimum, it usually means that most meat sources are excluded from the diet (such as beef, pork, lamb, poultry, and sometimes fish). More restricted diets exclude other foods of animal origin, such as egg and dairy products. Perhaps the most extreme example would be a "vegan" diet, where all foods and ingredients of foods, including vitamin and mineral sources, are excluded if they are derived from animals. Provided foods are carefully combined in appropriate proportions, vegetarian or vegan diets for people can be very nutritious and tasty.
However, is the same true for dogs and cats?
Why feed a vegetarian diet to pets?
Many people consider their vegetarian diets to be more healthful than the traditional western diet that includes animal-source foods, and some assume the same to be true for dogs and cats. However, the health reasons that people cite as the basis for their own eating habits may not apply where pets are concerned. For example, dogs and cats do not suffer from problems such as high cholesterol or coronary artery disease at anywhere near the incidence as do humans. Thus, reducing intake of saturated fats and cholesterol by cutting meats out of the diet would not be of any real health benefit in pets.
Another concern may be about bacterial contamination of the meat ingredients, which could cause disease when consumed by pets. This may be a legitimate concern when eating raw or undercooked meat or poultry, but properly processed dry or canned pet foods pose a far lesser risk of disease transmission than raw fruits and vegetables. Some vegetarian diets for pets are also offered on the premise that they will prevent food allergies. The true incidence of food allergies in pets is relatively low.
Regardless, allergies can also be developed against proteins in plants just as easily, so cutting out the meat sources does little to prevent this problem.
Potential problems
For example, the protein and calcium needs of the dog and cat are much higher than those for humans. These nutrients are most easily provided through animal-derived ingredients. Some plants, such as soy, are high in protein, but the amino acids within the protein are not as balanced as they are for most animal-source ingredients. Dogs and cats also need a dietary source of vitamin B12, a substance not found in most plants.
All animals "need" this vitamin, but plant-eating animals such as cattle and sheep can make their own through the action of bacteria in their gastrointestinal tracts, provided there are adequate amounts of the mineral cobalt in the diet (which is found in plants). As mentioned above, the cat has even more unique nutritional requirements that make it harder to get adequate amounts of all required nutrients in the diet without using some animal-source ingredients.
Can’t these nutrients be replaced using synthetic substitutes? Yes, it is theoretically possible to formulate a diet that meets all these specific needs using synthetic additives.
However, it becomes more expensive and far less reliable to do it this way. Even when a product is formulated to meet the nutritional needs "on paper," it may not work in the "real" world. For example, plants also contain phytates, substances that bind calcium and trace minerals, lowering their "bioavailability." So, even when minerals are provided at levels that appear adequate, they cannot be properly absorbed and used by the animal.
There are adjustments in the AAFCO Dog and Cat Food Nutrient Profiles to account for decreases in bioavailability of nutrients, but these are made on the assumption that both animal and plant-source ingredients are used. It is impossible to tell whether these levels would still be adequate for a completely plant-based diet.
Sunday, 30 October 2011
Friday, 21 October 2011
Treat at the right time
You can't just try and distract your dog AFTER the fact with treats.
TREATS to a dog is like Money is to you and I.
If I was your child, and was violently screaming at your neighbors and telling them how much I hated them, and you kept throwing 100€ notes at me to try and distract me... then wonder why the problem wasn't getting fixed, you might find yourself getting carted off by the men in white coats.
You wouldn't think of doing that with a child, so why would we think it would work for a dog?
If you're going to use rewards to help your dog overcome bad behavior they have to be given BEFORE your dog has an emotional flare up.
Even being a millisecond late is worthless.
TREATS to a dog is like Money is to you and I.
If I was your child, and was violently screaming at your neighbors and telling them how much I hated them, and you kept throwing 100€ notes at me to try and distract me... then wonder why the problem wasn't getting fixed, you might find yourself getting carted off by the men in white coats.
You wouldn't think of doing that with a child, so why would we think it would work for a dog?
If you're going to use rewards to help your dog overcome bad behavior they have to be given BEFORE your dog has an emotional flare up.
Even being a millisecond late is worthless.
Monday, 17 October 2011
Andalucía Law of Animal Protection
CALAHONDA PET DOG SCHOOL
"Owners Obligations"
The owners of the animals have must keep them:
In good sanitary and hygienic conditions.
In accommodation adequate for the size and breed.
Provide the feeding necessary for their normal development.
Provide personal identification within three months after their birth. (All dogs must be micro chipped)
Provide obligatory injections and treatment for their health.
Dogs should wear a collar and lead and always be controlled by their owners in public places.
Excrement left by animals should be removed from public places.
Prohibited Activities
Mistreatment of or physical aggression towards animals: (Fines from €75 - €30,000)
Abandoning animals: (Fines from €2,000 to €30,000)
Keeping animals permanently chained: (Fines from €500 to €3,000)
Using animals as prizes in fairs or tombolas: (Fines from €500 to €2,000€)
Dog fighting: (Fines from €2,000 to €30,000)
Keeping animals in places where they cause inconvenience or a nuisance to other people:(Fines from €75 to €500)
Selling animals illegally, and selling animals to purchasers less than 16 years of age:(Fines from €500 to €2,000)
Exploitation of working animals: (Fines €500 to €2,000)
Leaving poison in public places: (Fines from €2,000 to €30,000)
"Owners Obligations"
The owners of the animals have must keep them:
In good sanitary and hygienic conditions.
In accommodation adequate for the size and breed.
Provide the feeding necessary for their normal development.
Provide personal identification within three months after their birth. (All dogs must be micro chipped)
Provide obligatory injections and treatment for their health.
Dogs should wear a collar and lead and always be controlled by their owners in public places.
Excrement left by animals should be removed from public places.
Prohibited Activities
Mistreatment of or physical aggression towards animals: (Fines from €75 - €30,000)
Abandoning animals: (Fines from €2,000 to €30,000)
Keeping animals permanently chained: (Fines from €500 to €3,000)
Using animals as prizes in fairs or tombolas: (Fines from €500 to €2,000€)
Dog fighting: (Fines from €2,000 to €30,000)
Keeping animals in places where they cause inconvenience or a nuisance to other people:(Fines from €75 to €500)
Selling animals illegally, and selling animals to purchasers less than 16 years of age:(Fines from €500 to €2,000)
Exploitation of working animals: (Fines €500 to €2,000)
Leaving poison in public places: (Fines from €2,000 to €30,000)
Wednesday, 12 October 2011
Bite Incidences Come as No Surprise
Bite Incidences Come as No Surprise
According to a new veterinary study published in The Journal of Applied Animal Behaviour (2009), if you're aggressive to your dog, your dog will be aggressive, too.
Says Meghan Herron, DVM, lead author of the study,
"Nationwide, the number-one reason why dog owners take their dog to a veterinary behaviourist is to manage aggressive behaviour.
Our study demonstrated that many confrontational training methods, whether staring down dogs, striking them, or intimidating them with physical manipulation, do little to correct improper behaviour and can elicit aggressive responses."
Indeed, the use of such confrontational training techniques can provoke fear in the dog and lead to defensively aggressive behaviour toward the person administering the aversive action.
For the study, Herron, Frances S. Shofer and Ilana R. Reisner, veterinarians with the Department of Clinical Studies at University of Pennsylvania, School of Veterinary Medicine, produced a 30-item survey for dog owners who made behavioural service appointments at Penn Vet.
In the questionnaire, dog owners were asked how they had previously treated aggressive behaviour, whether there was a positive, negative or neutral effect on the dogs' behaviour, and whether aggressive responses resulted from the method they used. Owners were also asked where they learned of the training technique they employed. 140 surveys were completed.
Some Techniques Triggered Aggression
The highest frequency of aggression occurred in response to aversive (or punishing) interventions, even when the intervention was indirect:
• Hitting or kicking the dog (41% of owners reported aggression)
• Growling at the dog (41%)
• Forcing the dog to release an item from its mouth (38%)
• "Alpha roll" (forcing the dog onto its back and holding it down) (31%)
• "Dominance down" (forcing the dog onto its side) (29%)
• Grabbing the jowls or scruff (26%)
• Staring the dog down (staring at the dog until it looks away) (30%)
• Spraying the dog with water pistol or spray bottle (20%)
• Yelling "no" (15%)
• Forced exposure (forcibly exposing the dog to a stimulus – such as tile floors, noise or people – that frightens the dog) (12%)
In contrast, non-aversive methods resulted in much lower frequency of aggressive responses:
• Training the dog to sit for everything it wants (only 2% of owners reported aggression)
• Rewarding the dog for eye contact (2%)
• Food exchange for an item in its mouth instead of forcing the item out (6%)
• Rewarding the dog for "watch me" (0%)
Extracts from: Dr. Yin's Animal Behaviour and Medicine Blog.
According to a new veterinary study published in The Journal of Applied Animal Behaviour (2009), if you're aggressive to your dog, your dog will be aggressive, too.
Says Meghan Herron, DVM, lead author of the study,
"Nationwide, the number-one reason why dog owners take their dog to a veterinary behaviourist is to manage aggressive behaviour.
Our study demonstrated that many confrontational training methods, whether staring down dogs, striking them, or intimidating them with physical manipulation, do little to correct improper behaviour and can elicit aggressive responses."
Indeed, the use of such confrontational training techniques can provoke fear in the dog and lead to defensively aggressive behaviour toward the person administering the aversive action.
For the study, Herron, Frances S. Shofer and Ilana R. Reisner, veterinarians with the Department of Clinical Studies at University of Pennsylvania, School of Veterinary Medicine, produced a 30-item survey for dog owners who made behavioural service appointments at Penn Vet.
In the questionnaire, dog owners were asked how they had previously treated aggressive behaviour, whether there was a positive, negative or neutral effect on the dogs' behaviour, and whether aggressive responses resulted from the method they used. Owners were also asked where they learned of the training technique they employed. 140 surveys were completed.
Some Techniques Triggered Aggression
The highest frequency of aggression occurred in response to aversive (or punishing) interventions, even when the intervention was indirect:
• Hitting or kicking the dog (41% of owners reported aggression)
• Growling at the dog (41%)
• Forcing the dog to release an item from its mouth (38%)
• "Alpha roll" (forcing the dog onto its back and holding it down) (31%)
• "Dominance down" (forcing the dog onto its side) (29%)
• Grabbing the jowls or scruff (26%)
• Staring the dog down (staring at the dog until it looks away) (30%)
• Spraying the dog with water pistol or spray bottle (20%)
• Yelling "no" (15%)
• Forced exposure (forcibly exposing the dog to a stimulus – such as tile floors, noise or people – that frightens the dog) (12%)
In contrast, non-aversive methods resulted in much lower frequency of aggressive responses:
• Training the dog to sit for everything it wants (only 2% of owners reported aggression)
• Rewarding the dog for eye contact (2%)
• Food exchange for an item in its mouth instead of forcing the item out (6%)
• Rewarding the dog for "watch me" (0%)
Extracts from: Dr. Yin's Animal Behaviour and Medicine Blog.
Monday, 3 October 2011
How to stop your dog jumping up at the door
To put this into context let me give you an example...
Have you ever watched a mother be at a social gathering, notice that her child was getting into trouble, and turn to tell her child to BEHAVE?
And then pay attention to what the child does after the mother turns her attention back to what she was previously doing?
What often times will happen is that mothers will get caught up in social interactions for MUCH longer then the child wishes she would. So the kid get's bored and starts looking for stuff to do.
And when he finally finds something interesting, like playing with Grandmas VERY breakable antiques, he gets yelled at.
But if you pay attention to the child, you'll often times notice the child get a mischievous look on his face and go right back to playing with the same object... but this time he's reaching for that object with one eye on his Mother, actually HOPING he get's caught.
Isn't this interesting?
The child could often times find much more entertaining things to play with, but they seem to like to play with things that get their mother's attention.
And in effect, these mothers are "Paying For Trouble". They're rewarding their child with the attention and relief from boredom that they crave with exactly what the kid wants... Mommy's attention!
And if this goes unchecked, it becomes a bad habit.
But because it's EASIER for a mother to just yell at the child instead of giving the child attention when he's NOT causing trouble the problem get's worse.
Clever mothers who make an effort to go pay attention to their kids who are BEHAVING in public usually have better behaved kids.
So I always find it helpful to try to ask myself if I'm accidently
'Paying my Dog for Trouble'.
Which is what almost everyone does to a dog who jumps up.
You'll walk in the front door from a long day at work, your dog will run over and jump up on you, and you'll subconsciously reach down and rub his head. In effect, rewarding trouble.
Sure you'll then push him off you and tell him to get "Off". But all the dog knows is that if he runs over and jumps up on you he'll get pet. And if you don't pay attention to this you'll actually train your dog to run over and jump on every new person he sees!
So how do you fix it?
First realize what your dog wants when he jumps up. Does he want attention? If so, do NOT give it to him. Make a strong effort to completely ionone the jumping up.
That means no eye contact, no reaching for the dog with your hands, and no talking to the dog.
Second, set a goal for a behaviour you'd like to start rewarding your dog for doing INSTEAD of jumping up.Personally for me, this is a dog that will stay on all fours.
You may decide you'd like a dog to sit at your feet, or lay down. Whatever you choose, it doesn't matter,just pick something.
And lastly... once you've stopped Paying for Trouble behaviours, you need to switch to Paying for the Positive behaviour you'd like your dog to do for attention besides jumping up.
That means that you only pay attention, pet, look at or talk to your dog if he greets you on all fours, or whatever your goal behaviour is.
Do this enough times and your dog will realize that it's easier to get the attention he so highly craves by keeping all four paws on the ground, instead of jumping up.
If you'll just do this consistently for 5 days you'll be able to break his jump up habit.
Have you ever watched a mother be at a social gathering, notice that her child was getting into trouble, and turn to tell her child to BEHAVE?
And then pay attention to what the child does after the mother turns her attention back to what she was previously doing?
What often times will happen is that mothers will get caught up in social interactions for MUCH longer then the child wishes she would. So the kid get's bored and starts looking for stuff to do.
And when he finally finds something interesting, like playing with Grandmas VERY breakable antiques, he gets yelled at.
But if you pay attention to the child, you'll often times notice the child get a mischievous look on his face and go right back to playing with the same object... but this time he's reaching for that object with one eye on his Mother, actually HOPING he get's caught.
Isn't this interesting?
The child could often times find much more entertaining things to play with, but they seem to like to play with things that get their mother's attention.
And in effect, these mothers are "Paying For Trouble". They're rewarding their child with the attention and relief from boredom that they crave with exactly what the kid wants... Mommy's attention!
And if this goes unchecked, it becomes a bad habit.
But because it's EASIER for a mother to just yell at the child instead of giving the child attention when he's NOT causing trouble the problem get's worse.
Clever mothers who make an effort to go pay attention to their kids who are BEHAVING in public usually have better behaved kids.
So I always find it helpful to try to ask myself if I'm accidently
'Paying my Dog for Trouble'.
Which is what almost everyone does to a dog who jumps up.
You'll walk in the front door from a long day at work, your dog will run over and jump up on you, and you'll subconsciously reach down and rub his head. In effect, rewarding trouble.
Sure you'll then push him off you and tell him to get "Off". But all the dog knows is that if he runs over and jumps up on you he'll get pet. And if you don't pay attention to this you'll actually train your dog to run over and jump on every new person he sees!
So how do you fix it?
First realize what your dog wants when he jumps up. Does he want attention? If so, do NOT give it to him. Make a strong effort to completely ionone the jumping up.
That means no eye contact, no reaching for the dog with your hands, and no talking to the dog.
Second, set a goal for a behaviour you'd like to start rewarding your dog for doing INSTEAD of jumping up.Personally for me, this is a dog that will stay on all fours.
You may decide you'd like a dog to sit at your feet, or lay down. Whatever you choose, it doesn't matter,just pick something.
And lastly... once you've stopped Paying for Trouble behaviours, you need to switch to Paying for the Positive behaviour you'd like your dog to do for attention besides jumping up.
That means that you only pay attention, pet, look at or talk to your dog if he greets you on all fours, or whatever your goal behaviour is.
Do this enough times and your dog will realize that it's easier to get the attention he so highly craves by keeping all four paws on the ground, instead of jumping up.
If you'll just do this consistently for 5 days you'll be able to break his jump up habit.
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